The name “Glamorgan sausage” hides a fair old whack of sin. “Leek and cheese croquettes” are something you might legitimately feel bad about having for dinner, something you might be passingly moderate about; or nibble fussily from a hot buffet. Balls to that, says Wales. This is real food, and we’ll treat it as such. It’s a sausage, get on with it.
And sausages they are. Heavy and filling, tending to rich, and with a pleasing bite from the leeks, Glamorgan sausages are the only veggie banger not to feel like a limp apology.
What they are not, however, is the best sausages. The best sausage is finocchiona. (Although in the spirit of diplomacy, I’d also consider a good, mealy, rustic Lincolnshire for the top spot.)
Being as you can’t really add fine-ground pork and still have Glamorgan sausages be either vegetarian or remotely similar to their origin, it’s hard to see a path to a finocchiona mash up. But I do wonder if we can get in some of that gorgeous fennel flavour in there, along with the deep, winey richness.
Let’s have a go.
Continue reading Fennel & manchego Glamorgan Sausages (sort of)
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has, in Veg Every day, something he calls a “vegiflette toastie”. It’s veg-filled cheese on toast, loosely inspired by tartiflette. Funnily enough, a heap of stuff, fried and baked with cheese and potatoes, loosely inspired by tartiflette is one of my own staples.
I like to fry potatoes and onions, plus something else that’s lying around (often bacon), then sprinkle over flour, let out with milk, and melt in a fuckload of taleggio. Once it’s amalgamated, you bake it for a bit to finish. It’s tasty, and non-trivially indulgent.
Hugh suggests chicory in his version, which isn’t something I cook with much, so I tried it. The chicory was added towards the end, to just soften a little and cover in sauce. In with the potatoes and onions I fried leftover cauliflower and loads of thyme and garlic. The cheese happened to be manchego.
It works as well as any other variant on the cheesy potato bake theme. The chicory gives off quite a bit of water as it wilts, so this one was a little sloppy. It also has a bitter, astringent tang that works well with the rich sauce, but some may find off-putting.