Potato-topped haddock and crab chowder pie

Potato-topped chowder piethink it was Nietzsche who first and best expressed the sentiment: “When you gaze too long upon the tweets of 70s Dinner Party,  you’ll end up covering everything in duchess potato.”

And so it was. Bored and confused, I pushed most of a kilo of potatoes through a sieve, all in the name of putting deeply silly hat on a crab chowder.

Honestly, if you don’t enjoy dicking about with a piping bag then it is not worth it – just slather on the mash and carry on with your life. Maybe run a fork over it to make those weird little furrows that seemed mandatory in the 90s. But if you really want a fish pie that Robert Carrier would have thought looked fancy as balls, then this might just be for you.

It’s a thickened crab and smoked fish chowder, with a load of mash on top, and it’s big and solid and satisfying.

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Riddle and Finns, Brighton – seafood and style

I have been to Riddle and Finns twice now; once nearly three years ago, in the early days of my spending a lot of time in Brighton, and again last night. Their online menu (it’s a pdf, I’m afraid. Because restaurants) is a little out of date. On both occasions I enjoyed it tremendously, and I’m reasonably sure that on both occasions I did so by making a wretched mess of myself and the table near abouts, by dismantling an enormous crab. Crab claw at Riddle and Finns The folks I was with ate lobster and sea bass. We had simple sides, a middling Sancerre,  a little dessert, and a gorgeous sweet sherry to round it all off. This set us back about £50 per head, which I felt was perfectly reasonable for the experience, but if you’re less fond of shellfish and/or booze, you could easily spend half that.

Either way, I’d recommend a visit.

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