I like panettone. I mean, I like anything you can toast and put butter on, but as a festive food it has a special place in my heart for one very particular reason: it isn’t Christmas pudding.

There’s this whole screed I’ll do after a few drinks (and if I’m feeling mean-spirited) about Office Banter Blokes ordering roast turkey “with all the trimmings – got to be done, mate!”, followed by Christmas pudding, and masticating their way through it with that bloodless performative jollity that masculinity lets you have instead of fun.

But mostly, I just find Christmas cakes and puddings a bit heavy. Panettone makes a great alternative.

Here’s the panettone I make. It’s not super authentic – a “proper” one would have a slow sour early ferment, for fluffiness and taste. But you can fake a little of that with an overnight prove and some orange zest, which is what I do here.

It’s not the easiest thing to make, and it’s messy as balls, but it’s kind of fun.